No frites: Hill’s keeps it simple in Richmond Beach | Art & Appetite

By James Spangler | Jul 07, 2017
Hill’s Restaurant and Bar
Rating: 4.6 out of 5
Where: 1843 NW 195th St., Shoreline
Entrees: $11-$28
Info: www.hillsshoreline.com, 206-542-6353

 

Maybe it was just me, but for a long time it seemed like there was a sort of culinary wasteland from the county line to about Northgate. Although there were great places to eat in Edmonds, immediately to the south of us I often felt there were few restaurants I could get very excited about.

An exception to this phenomena, tucked away in a cozy little corner of Richmond Beach, is Hill’s Restaurant and Bar. It's been there for over a decade now, quietly drawing Richmond Beach and Shoreline regulars. But if you're not already aware of it, Hill’s is a restaurant worthy of your attention, even if it's not in your own backyard.

One of the things I like best about Hill’s is that although its quality is top notch, it is intentionally, utterly unpretentious.

At a time when it would be helpful to be fluent in several languages to decipher many menus placed in front of us, the good people of Hill’s seem to understand that there are English words for many of the things we eat.

Rather than succumb to the temptation to call fries “frites,” or to have a “prix fixe” menu, Hill’s has a three for $25 Tuesday. Soup or salad, your choice of four entrées, and dessert. It’s a screaming good deal without pomposity or condescension, which are available at other restaurants but will cost you more.

We decided to try them for lunch and dinner just to be thorough. We were fortunate enough to be able to find seating on their deck. It felt terrific to get a little sun on a mild summer day.

You just can't go wrong with a good steak salad for lunch in my opinion, and Hill’s has a great one available on both their lunch and dinner menus. My flatiron steak was hidden beneath a nice little pile of tastefully prepared breaded onions (we call them onion rings), which I devoured before attacking the mixed greens and blue cheese.

My dining companion ordered the roasted chicken salad, also delicious. The golden raisins, almonds and croutons provided color contrast, complexity and calories – but we managed to eat it all.

Returning the next day for dinner, we ordered their Parmesan-encrusted sole and the salmon in a lemon ver blanc sauce, both served with mixed vegetables including sweet, thin asparagus,roasted tomatoes, Kalamata olives, and capers with some amazing Yukon gold mashed potatoes, the secret to which was leaving a bit of skin on and actually mashing rather than whipping the potatoes.

For dessert, if you love chocolate, try their lava cake with a little French vanilla ice cream and a cup of their Black Swan coffee. It's comfort food at its best.

Hill’s gets high marks for maintaining great quality and reasonable prices, and my undying gratitude for keeping it simple.

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